36 Hours in Juneau, Alaska

RESIDENTS of Juneau brag that their town is the most beautiful capital city in America, and they have a strong argument. Juneau is inside the Tongass National Forest, part of the world’s largest temperate rain forest. Old-growth groves and glaciers lie within the municipal limits, snow-capped mountains loom overhead, and whales and other marine wildlife are a short boat ride away. But despite Juneau’s overall utilitarian vibe, there’s more to the town’s appeal than natural beauty. Gold Rush-era buildings, art galleries, quality regional theater and fresh seafood make for pleasant companions to Juneau’s stunning surroundings.

BACK TO THE ICE AGE

Nature beckons. But some preparations are required. On your way into town, stop at Western Auto-Marine (5165 Glacier Highway; 907-780-4909; www.westernautojuneau.com) for a pair of brown rubber, calf-high Xtra Tuf Boots, a must-have item in any Alaskan’s wardrobe (depending on whether you spring for the reinforced toes, they typically sell for $80 or $90). A good place to start your trek is the entrance to the Switzer Creek and Richard Marriott Trails (midway on Sunset Street). On the hillside, even ranks of evergreens give way to a hodge-podge of trees of different species, sizes and shapes. This change marks the boundary between second-growth timber on land logged decades ago, and an old-growth forest, untouched since the end of the last ice age. Hike up the trail — it’s not too strenuous — and discover for yourself why environmentalists are so keen to save these ancient woods, namely an amazingly rich variety of plant and animal life. There are hemlock and spruce, whose uneven canopy blocks winter snow, leaving plants like five-leaved bramble to feed deer and other animals through the winter. (Keep to the wooden planks at the base of the trail, and be glad you have your boots. The bog, or muskeg, is plenty wet.)

What better way to start your Saturday than with some close-up views of Juneau’s original residents. A number of companies offer whale-watching trips from Auke Bay, a short car (or bus) ride north of Downtown. Find one offering a trip up the Lynn Canal to Berners Bay and you are sure to see Steller sea lions basking on a rocky haul-out, harbor seals bobbing in the water and harrier hawks, geese and ducks. Also watch for eagles nesting along the shores. Most companies guarantee you will see whales; chances of spotting humpbacks are best in late spring when the herring-like fish called eulakon (“hooligan” in a local Native language) are running.

source: http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/08/30/travel/30hours.html